Terrano reliability

[stevo]

I've had a lot of Landies, predominantly Defenders and Disco, and I can honestly say that the issues are the same.

Both are rugged 4 wheel drives (albeit part time in the Terrano), and both suffer from rust.

What you are getting from the Terrano is a more modern car, more comfort and warmth, and, dare I say, more luggage space than a Defender 110. The Terrano swallows all my camping gear where the 110 struggled.

Parts are a bit harder to find at a good price, but Millners seem to be the dogs cohones, and cheap.

And, you'll get a 2002/2003 Terrano for half the price of a 93 defender

Let go of the Oval, and spend less time fixing, more time driving...

[rustic]

Originally Posted by stinka

...
But if I had my time again, and was buying a base for an offroader, rather than paying £2k for a 2002 newer plate like I did 2 years ago, I wish I had waited and found a mint 98/99 low mileage truck and paid £2k for the older plate, and arguably stronger base vehicle...

Oh does that then mean that my 1995 LWB Maverick, with no structural rust, no welding, and waxoyled from new, and still in pristine condition, with less than 97k miles is worth more each year...? It's book price has been low for a few years, it can't drop anymore, so it must be appreciating. Well I appreciate it anyway...

After 18+ years of ownership, I doubt I would want to sell it, and I wouldn't even do a swap with a newer model, even if they paid me extra.

Ok nice to have the extra power, Air con, ABS, but all these extras means higher costs over the years in maintenance and repairs. I also think that Ford in the early days, 93 onwards, insisted on better under seal, as this was their first ever UK vehicle to have 3 years warranty, to match Nissan.

With reference to the rear floor pan, from what I have seen on this site, you cannot get a good idea how bad the rear floor pan is from underneath unless it is really bad, due to the double skin. A good way, for example on the LWB, is to raise the second row of seats, and lift the carpet and look towards the rear at the seat belt mount, and on the floor where the seat locking hoop is, this will probably be the first place to go.

From my experience, and the only item on mine to suffer from the tin worm was the forward seam of the fuel tank, this is where it sprung a leak. But it took 18 years to show. You will probably find that ALL Terranos and Mavericks have started to go here, judging by how difficult it was to find a good second hand one. So have a look here too.

Front ARB joints go regularly, but an easy fix, to test your vehicle, if safe to do so and on level ground, handbrake off, and rock the car sideways, with the driver's door open, push upwards on the inside part of the roof, if you hear a few clonks, it is likely to be those OR other suspension components. Grounds for a price reduction...

While you are under there, check out the universal joints on the prop shaft, the rears have 2 nipples, and should be regularly greased. Early ones had 3 Nipples on the front prop shaft, but since they were rarely used ie only in 4wheel drive, due to the free wheel hubs, Nissan decided that these nipples weren't really necessary, however another department then decided that the Auto hubs weren't really required, and put fixed hubs in, which meant that the front prop shaft was doing as many miles as the rear.... However without proper lubrication, ie no grease nipples, then wore out really quickly.

Well I think we have aired most of our dirty washing, basically these truck are brilliant, spend more time on the road than on the hard shoulder

Like all vehicles, avoid launching boats in salt water, if it means going up to the axles.
Regularly wash mud from under the wheel arches and rinse underneath after salt on the road.

Rustic

[Bedhead1157]

I've owned mine since last October, but I've driven it for about 6 years, I bought it off my boss and in the whole time he owned it, there were zero mechanical issues, only preventative maintenance, the gearbox was stripped and rebuilt because he was a it paranoid with a noise, and a new clutch fitted, apart from that only droplinks and bushes and a battery,

It had some welding for the last MOT and for this one will need a couple of patches, luckily I know a good 4x4 man so he knows how to make the welding last.

This is a jeep that works bloody hard, it's pulled a trailer with a Massey 135 on it from Edinburgh to Belfast, it's pulled trailerloads of scrap, pulled trailerloads of turf off road and I use it as general workhorse, the only problem I've had, touch wood, has been a corroded fuel line.

I've had Suzuki 4x4's and they have been awful, guzzle fuel and dissolve before your eyes.

[puddle hoppers inc.]

ive put 20k miles on mine in the last 12 months of owning it, 03 2.7. only problem ive had really is the cv boots(bitch of a job). it was a toss up between an 01ish disco and the terry but, after looking at 7 disco's (all rotten) we chose the terry. starts on the button, runs on upto 80% veg oil in warmer times, tows brilliantly and , although the rear 2 seats really are emergency seats, it has a huge boot(lwb). would prefer a cd player to a poxy tape player given the year but hey ho! good luck!

[Rusty Spanner]

I've been to look at 4 cars know RUST RUST and even more RUST, I thought Land Rover had a bad reputation for the brown flaky stuff, Every one I've viewed has had issues with the sills. Is it really worth looking at the 1999 cars is there that much of a difference, The ones I've seen have all been 2002 plus I'm having serious doubts now

[Lazy-Ferret]

Originally Posted by Rusty Spanner

I've been to look at 4 cars know RUST RUST and even more RUST, I thought Land Rover had a bad reputation for the brown flaky stuff, Every one I've viewed has had issues with the sills. Is it really worth looking at the 1999 cars is there that much of a difference, The ones I've seen have all been 2002 plus I'm having serious doubts now

When I was looking, the 1998 and 1999 were the best for lack of rust, and I went for a 1999. Remember to look for ones that are away from the sea, and if you can head south a bit where they need to use less salt on the roads.

[spiderpig37]

As said pre 2000 tend to be better than the newer ones find one that's been looked after and you wont be dissapointed
Andy

[puddle hoppers inc.]

no rust on mine, area may have some factor in it maybe? salty sea air, etc.
rust was the main reason we didnt get another disco. though the strength of bolts has been a bit worrying when you try to undo them and they shear with signs of rust thru the middle of them(ball joints!). always look around every car as an individual car as there are some landies out there that are solid, its just that i have only seen one pre 03 plate !

[rustic]

I waxoyled all my nuts on day one , over 18 years ago, and so far, when ever I have undone them, they still look shinny and new.
I did the track rod ends, ball joints etc etc.

Even the brake pipes came out easily and rust free from the rear brake cylinders.

When ever I assemble nuts and bolts I always give them a smear of waxoyl ready for next time.
I replaced the engine under cover and front bash plate M6 bolts with stainless, as they were showing some wear, with 18 years of TLC and servicing.
Non of the originals sheared.

BUT as I have said before, you still have to top up the waxoyl every two years, but I always have a jar of waxoyl and a brush to hand when ever I see any dodgy areas when I am working on the car.

Rustic

[AlexD333]

Is that the best way? Up on a ramp and a brush n pot of the stuff?

Is it safe to waxoyl all parts (minus discs obv)

[rustic]

Originally Posted by AlexD333

Is that the best way? Up on a ramp and a brush n pot of the stuff?

Is it safe to waxoyl all parts (minus discs obv)

There are quite a lot of posts on this, some spray, some use the air powerered paraffin sprayer, after diluting 10% or more.
Warm up the waxoyl first, by placing the can in very hot water, and keep shaking. Slacken cap a little first though.

The waxoyl can affect rubber, it causes the rubber to swell, but seems to return afterwards, but avoid tyres, hoses etc just in case.
Avoid exhaust, and prepare to get coverered, it is a pig to get out of your hair too. Well it used to be...

I usually use a 3" brush, or 1 1/2" brush, 6 for a £1 and then throw them away afterwards.

There must be about 4 or 5 x 5litres of the stuff, applied to my Mav over 18 years...

I think mine might be the best 18 year old by far, in condition, and probably better than most half her age...

Still less than 96 k miles too.

Rustic

[Sweety]

Originally Posted by Rusty Spanner

I've been to look at 4 cars know RUST RUST and even more RUST, I thought Land Rover had a bad reputation for the brown flaky stuff, Every one I've viewed has had issues with the sills. Is it really worth looking at the 1999 cars is there that much of a difference, The ones I've seen have all been 2002 plus I'm having serious doubts now

Is that all you've looked at I spent 18 months & looked at over 40 before buying mine yes it has the odd spot of rust nothing I can't sort out easily but my sills, floor etc are solid but like most Terrano's it had never seen underseal until I bought it & it'll be done every year from now on & mine is a thin metal 55 plate Onto my second Terrano now & in between I had a disco 2 which cost more to fix in 6 months than both my Terrano's have all together.
Found Terrano's to be very nimble to drive on road & can be chucked about on twisty roads unlike the disco I had which was like a boat on wheels

[Rusty Spanner]

Finally found one without the dreaded TIN worm

Only problem is, its star ship enterprise mileage its done 186k

Its a 2005 3.0 and the price reflects the mileage, full service history owned by the same chap since new

How good are these engines is it worth a punt or should it be avoided

[makeitfit]

My 2.7 has done more than that but that's no help is it

[Rusty Spanner]

Originally Posted by makeitfit

My 2.7 has done more than that but that's no help is it

Nope